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Hi
I have 220 v outlet for a dryer in my basement. I got a 220v hot plate from work and want to use while we are having work done in our kitchen (maybe 2 months). The hot plate has blk, wht and ground wire (10/2) can I wire a dryer plug which asks for 2 hot wires, netural and ground when I only have one hot wire from the hot plate?
Thanks in advance

Are you in the US?. Never seen a “220″ residential hot plate. If US this sounds like some sort of commercial appliance. The experts would need the amp draw to tell you if it will work on the dryer receptacle.
Quote:
The hot plate has blk, wht and ground wire (10/2) can I wire a dryer plug which asks for 2 hot wires, netural and ground when I only have one hot wire from the hot plate? Assuming US and it really is 220V the white in the cord set is actually a hot wire not a neutral. That’s just the standard colors for a two conductor cord. You would use a standard four prong dryer plug with the white and black on the brass (x-y) screws ground on green screw and nothing on silver screw (neutral). (Nit pick if this is US the dryer is receptacle 240v and if the hotplate is made for US use then it is probably 240V.)

Posted under Electrical

Thanks in advance.

I am running new wire to my air compressor. It is 230v 15 amps. The outlet has 3 screws, 2 brass and 1 green color.

I had the compressor wired with 8 gauge, but the wire is too fat for the outlet and it was temporary just to get the compressor running. So now I want to make it correct. But I ran into a question. The 8 gauge I was using is 3 wires, 1 black,1 red and 1 white. So I was using the white as neutral. But I read on this forum that maybe it should be wired with 2 wires 110v and a ground. But to me it seams wrong to have 220v continuosly returning back to ground. Should not it go back to the source?

For a 240V compressor, you use two hots and a ground. You can install this with 12/2g cable if the distance is reasonable. Use the black as hot #1, color the ends of the white with a red marker and use that as hot #2, and the bare as ground. The breaker should probably be a 20A double-pole, but could be larger based on exact specs of the motor.

Posted under Electrical

Hi, I’m searching for answers and hope somebody has seen this problem before and fixed it.
A contractor put in a new tub/shower enclosure and new Danze Fairmont D112000BT fixture and showerhead. It has the one-handle temp mixer.
It “thump-thump-thump’s” in the wall if you turn it on too fast. We contacted the manufacturer, tried adjusting the two screws on the cartridge, installed a new cartridge they sent us, and nothing changes.

This problem could be caused by a few things, I would like to know why your contractor will not fix this problem? I would call the City and give your permit number and tell them that you think your contractor put in defective material first. Then I would take the valve apart and check the inside of the valve for junk that could cause this problem. You didn’t say anything about contacting the valve company, they have good support for this valve. You should have at least 1 year warranty with this valve. Good luck,it looks like you don’t have to anything but make a phone call.

This is the instructions to the valve:
http://www.danze-online.com/products/pdfs/D112000_im.pdf
good luck.

Posted under Plumbing