No, use twin circuit breakers if your load center will accept them.
Posted under Electrical
This post was written by admin on December 2, 2008
Double 20 amp Breaker question
I have some 20amp double pole breakers can I remove the "pin" and use them as single pole breakers?
No, use twin circuit breakers if your load center will accept them.
No, use twin circuit breakers if your load center will accept them.
Mysterious Kitchen Sink Issue
I am having a hard time determining the next potential source for a problem i am having with my kitchen sink and am looking for thoughts/ideas.
My kitchen sink is not draining (unless i run the garbage disposal, this seems to put enough pressure on the water to force it down). originally i thought it was the GD as it was very old, so i replaced it. yet the problem returned with the new GD. i ran a snake all the way to the stack and can find no blocking. i have disassembled and reassembled the kitchen plumbing and new GD several times and can find no blockage or reasonable explanation for the backup.
When i run the water after draining the trap, it takes about 45 seconds before the water backs up, but once it does, afterwards its immediate every time.
no other plumbing in the house is backing up or holding water.
I do have construction going on in my upstairs bathroom, where the toilet drain, shower drain, and sink drain are open, but i cannot imagine this would cause any issues, though i cannot recall if my issue began at the time construction began.
I also have trouble thinking its the drain stack as i would expect the problem to manifest in other areas of the house.
Help, anybody, somebody...i need ideas on where to go next (besides calling a plumber) as i dont think this is rocket science, just that i am missing some essential understanding or piece of information.
Your line is clogged downstream. The GD has the effect of acting like a "pump" and it will cram a lot of water down there, which often backs up into the sink when you turn it off. It will not clear the clog. You need a good snake in the hands of a professional.
My kitchen sink is not draining (unless i run the garbage disposal, this seems to put enough pressure on the water to force it down). originally i thought it was the GD as it was very old, so i replaced it. yet the problem returned with the new GD. i ran a snake all the way to the stack and can find no blocking. i have disassembled and reassembled the kitchen plumbing and new GD several times and can find no blockage or reasonable explanation for the backup.
When i run the water after draining the trap, it takes about 45 seconds before the water backs up, but once it does, afterwards its immediate every time.
no other plumbing in the house is backing up or holding water.
I do have construction going on in my upstairs bathroom, where the toilet drain, shower drain, and sink drain are open, but i cannot imagine this would cause any issues, though i cannot recall if my issue began at the time construction began.
I also have trouble thinking its the drain stack as i would expect the problem to manifest in other areas of the house.
Help, anybody, somebody...i need ideas on where to go next (besides calling a plumber) as i dont think this is rocket science, just that i am missing some essential understanding or piece of information.
Your line is clogged downstream. The GD has the effect of acting like a "pump" and it will cram a lot of water down there, which often backs up into the sink when you turn it off. It will not clear the clog. You need a good snake in the hands of a professional.
Posted under Plumbing
This post was written by admin on December 2, 2008
pressure/well tank adjustment question
hello everyone,
water pressure in my house has been on the decline for a while now. I've checked the pipes and joints for leaks (luckily, I found none).
I've got a Challenger Series pressure tank (Flexcon Industries). I watched the pressure on it last night - it turns on at about 28psi and cuts off at about 62psi (then seems to "settle" at about 60, without the water running).
I understand that the on/off spread should be around 20 psi, right? So perhaps I should adjust the "on" setting to 40psi?
the second part of my question has to do with making the adjustment. there is no housing over the relay/switch that is inline with the pressure guage. there are, however, two nuts on posts/springs which I assume are my on/off adjustments. one is clearly taller than the other. any idea which one is which?
The tall one raises both the cut in and cut off pressure at the same time. You want to adjust the smaller one.
water pressure in my house has been on the decline for a while now. I've checked the pipes and joints for leaks (luckily, I found none).
I've got a Challenger Series pressure tank (Flexcon Industries). I watched the pressure on it last night - it turns on at about 28psi and cuts off at about 62psi (then seems to "settle" at about 60, without the water running).
I understand that the on/off spread should be around 20 psi, right? So perhaps I should adjust the "on" setting to 40psi?
the second part of my question has to do with making the adjustment. there is no housing over the relay/switch that is inline with the pressure guage. there are, however, two nuts on posts/springs which I assume are my on/off adjustments. one is clearly taller than the other. any idea which one is which?
The tall one raises both the cut in and cut off pressure at the same time. You want to adjust the smaller one.
Posted under Plumbing
This post was written by admin on December 2, 2008
